Nature's Army Corp of Engineering of a Riverbed
I am writing this post extra (which is one of three extras aside from the main post) as a side addition to my main final of three Anza Expedition posts which I have previous written with regard the series of events recorded in the journals of Juan Bautista de Anza, Fray Pedro Font and Friar Francisco Garcès. I want to briefly veer off the record of the Spanish Explorer's trek to give readers a visual of what the natural world (were it not for the natural world observations recorded by these men, I would have never created these posts) in the San Jacinto Valley may have possibly looked like when these explorers found & saw it for the first time based on what they wrote and what my own experience of this area tells me. Along with their written observations, there is also still some physical forensic evidence of sorts to back up those observations and verify what once was by making some present comparisons with other existing riparian wetland habitats. I want this post here to illustrate the mechanisms and/or the geological nature of what was observed and certain natural forces which maintained such a once beautiful ecosystem which has been systematically dismantled and obliterated in the name National economic interests. Our entire Earth suffers under all the National Interests of each & every Sovereignty dominating the globe which has resulted in the present climatic mess we find ourselves fighting and struggling to survive in, all the while trying not to cut more holes than absolutely necessary in our own economic safety nets.
|Credit: Riverside County Flood Control|
|Image: Melody Mcfarland|
Bautista Canyon Flood Basin
|image: Riverside County Flood Control|
Photo: Mine (2013)
|photo: Riverside Flood Control|
|Image: Michael Layefsky|
This area may have been the direction of the second branch of the Bautista Creek stream bed which Fray Pedro Font wrote about when they emerged from the mouth of Bautista Canyon onto the Bajada flood plain where he said the stream disappeared into the sand a ways downstream. Clearly this specific location above would be a logical point at which the dividing of the water stream bed would explain the stream moving underground at some point into the sandy wash. It also would have been a well watered region with water tables near the surface allowing for any riparian and oak woodlands to exist here. This second stream channel's westerly direction would also have contributed to south and west Hemet Valley's Vernal Pools once it passed the Park Hill are and possibly doubled back during high flooding seasons. This stream course would have also helped other surface wetlands which allowed for the profusion of wildflower displays described immediately seen by all the Anza Expedition journal writers who mentioned not only the wildflowers, but also the Geese and other waterfowl from the moment they emerged from Bautista Canyon.
|Image: Michael Layefshy|
This image above by Michael Layefsky is of the Bautista Creek Flood Control Channel which was redirected more north and east from it's historic further west course. He describes it as an irrigation canal, but the real irrigation canal which siphons and sucks water from the San Jacinto River Canyon at three locations is the thin concrete channel line which runs from right to left in the image crossing the Flood Channel. There are many other hydrological components up & down stream which also contributed to the San Jacinto River's water flooding when it occurs. All of the journals speak of these other tributaries as well, especially regarding their importance in helping to fill Mystic Lake. I briefly wrote about one of these called Portero Creek which runs from the north out of the San Gorgornio Mountains north of present day Beaumont which itself is north of the San Jacinto Valley.
The aerial photograph of the city of San Jacinto flooding at the very top of this post merely illustrates the more direct route taken by the 1980 flood which in reality was merely back into it's old original historic water course as it made it's way in a more beeline fashion to Mystic Lake and present day community of Lakeview. The map below here I created from Google Earth to illustrate with coloured pins to give an idea of both the historic and modern river stream bed routes. You can actually click on any of these images to blow them up bigger to get the full flavour of what I am referring to. Red Pins illustrates the original channel along with the present concrete Bautista Flood Channel and the two rows of blue pins actually represent both divided channels of Bautista Creek which Fray Pedro Font made reference to. The Bautista wash which can still be found on modern maps are represented by blue pins on the right, with the older original historical channel on the left and west of Park Hill.
|image animation, Google Earth|
Below is the image I created from Google Earth to illustrate the western route of Bautista Creek into a more westerly confluence into the San Jacinto River Valley. The intense probability of this valley being a major wetlands system was huge and the natural vegetative potential for which all of these men wrote about, although at times varying from one another is also born out by the geographical facts which still exist as a testament today. The beauty of several journals being written about the same event, is not that they conflict with one another, but rather compliment each other. Each one has personal tastes and points of view that interest them. While some may have seen the very observations someone else wrote of, others noted down other important factors which contributed to a more complete picture which gives us a richer picture of a extinct landscape which no longer exists, but clues perhaps of how to put things back together again with a little practical application if one has a mind to do such. Again, click on image for zoom feature.
|image animation: Google Earth|
|Image: Google Earth|
|West Hemet Goldfield wildflowers once |
a more common occurrence than it is today
being replaced with Houses & Industrials.
|Temecal Canyon hillside California Poppies|
and what North Mountain also would have
appeared to the Spanish explorers
|Image: Google Earth|
An important side reading:
|Animated Image Map: Press Enterpise|
SAN JACINTO: Council to consider updating drainage facilities plan
There are many reasons for the potential existence of a massive riparian ecosystem which existed on the majority of the San Jacinto Valley's floor. First off there was no Lake Hemet Dam upstream in South Fork Canyon storing and preventing water from making it's way down river to irrigate the system all year long. Even during the driest years of low rainy season, such water for maintaining & sustaining such an riparian woodland ecosystem with all it's marshes would have always been available and dependable. Remember also, no one was tapping into any of the valley water table which would have always been close to the surface even during the drier times. Add to that the normal healthy function of hydraulic redistribution and the fungal web and you have a system that is little altered. There also would be the absence of those three downstream runoff diversion dams (South Fork - North Fork - Strawberry Creek) for siphoning off water into the aqueduct which diverts precious river ecosystem water for agricultural commercial interests in east Hemet. The river and all other tributaries from the mountains to Mystic Lake were able to run free all year long. The very valley floor itself and water table or underground aquifer wouldn't have been tapped into by any human which in turn allowed for a higher surface availability for even low growing plants like sedges and rushes. The water table was high enough to allow not only the surface flow of the river all year as the men made note of, but also the marshes and backwater reedy pools to exist for extended distances on either side of the rivers massive old growth Cottonwood forested groves which lined the river main channel as is evidenced by all Expedition member's recording the difficulty they experienced in traveling west and having to make continued detours. Even when on seemingly open ground, they described it as miry or mucky. Now hopefully with a deeper appreciation of this area's hydrology and geography and the lack of human interference, look back in time with your mind's eye and appreciate what the explorers would have seen had you personally been there to witness it for yourself. I know it's tough to do if you've never lived in this area or at least briefly passed through, but I think I have an idea.
|Image: Google Earth|
I'm going to use some photos of another nearby riparian water rich area in Riverside County which I believe would perfectly illustrate what these men saw and wrote about. You will also understand why I chose these photos at the end of this. I'm going to use the region around the Prado Dam Flood Basin & Wetlands Park area to illustrate the past San Jacinto River Valley's historical scenery. The native plants around Prado Basin there are for the most part identical (with the exception of some modern invasive nonnatives) to what once was present within the early San Jacinto River valley and I'll post some short paragraphs of what all three men commented on what they were seeing which should give an accurate enough visual to fit the photographs. The first picture here above is on Hwy 71 (Corona Freeway) looking east over the Prado Wetlands. It's the best spot to view the entire wetlands preserve from any easy access vantage viewpoint. It's also the wettest time of year and could well illustrate the late winter flooding season for San Jacinto Valley which would have been a normal natural annual occurrence. I also believe this accurately illustrates the scene Anza, Font, Garcès, Diaz and his men viewed after climbing Park Hill in Hemet to it's highest vantage point to get a sense of bearings and which direction as to how they should proceed westward. I mean that's what I would have done if I camped at it's base of low hills.
|Image: Dan Hale|
|Photo: M. Dolly|
Juan Bautista de Anza (March 18 1776)
"After this the canyon [present day Bautista Canyon], which we followed to the north and north-northwest, kept getting wider and wider [later journal by Pedro Font described this as a Bajada that divided into 2 stream courses and disappeared into the sand], until we reached a broad and most beautiful valley, six leagues distant from the place whence we had set out."
Reference of Term "League" - about almost 3 miles
"Through this beautiful valley, to which we gave the name of San José, [San Jacinto Valley] runs a good-sized river, on whose banks are large, shady groves. Likewise in the mountains where the river forms there are seen pines, oaks, and various other trees. All its plain is full of flowers, fertile pastures, and other vegetation, useful for the raising of cattle, of which species as many as one might wish could be raised. And in the same way one could raise good crops, which I judge would be produced with great advantage, . . "The photograph above could well illustrate the similar scene of the San Jacinto River flood plain the Spanish explorer's experienced while standing on Park Hill facing north towards the present city site of San Jacinto which would be underneath the beautifully lush riparian ecosystem below the foot of North Mountain (represented by the Chino Hills) or even the Badland Hills further west at the eastern end of Moreno Valley. This actual photo above however is in the middle of the Prado Wetlands area viewing from east to west with the Chino Hills & Corona Freeway (Hwy 71) in the background of this location. Once again, this is only an illustration, but along with the lushness of the riparian forested valley floor, the steep slopes on the other side (imagine they are North Mountain) would have been solid orange with a mass display of California Poppies in full bloom. While those Chino Hills here are of dry grasses, they nevertheless beautifully illustrate the possibilities of what scenery the men experienced when passing through the San Jacinto River Valley floodplains. Especially so nearer to Mystic Lake and Lakeview which would contain a mosaic of small lakes, ponds, lagoons and other backwater marshlands too waterlogged for trees, with the exception of a few Willow and Cottonwood groves on the outer perimeters.
|Photo: M. Dolly|
Fray Pedro Font, March 13, 1776
"After about four leagues the canyon [present day Bautista Canyon] becomes wider and the water of the arroyo, which at the end divides into two branches to open out into the Valley of San Joseph, is lost in the sand."This is interesting description here of the riparian habitat emerging from the mouth of boulder strewn Bautista Canyon onto an alluvial fan or Bajada. Such geological features can allow for a river or stream to oscillate it's channel course direction back and forth where ever the flood waters during rainy season push it. Log jams and other debris may also have dictated just where and how the course of such a hydrological feature may have move around. Dividing into two channels certainly would have cut water resources in half causing the stream flow to disappear underground just as Font recorded it in his personal journal. The oldest known course is still in existence along Hwy 74 (Florida Avenue), but the other may have angled in a more westerly direction along Stetson Avenue on the east side of the city of Hemet and then being forced to turn northwest by a low boulder outcropping line or chain of hills which block access to south Hemet along western Statson Ave. (READ LINK I POSTED ABOVE) Whatever the case, it's nevertheless interesting that only Fray Pedro Font is the one who noted this geographical and important natural feature of the riverbed.
“In the morning the weather was fair and not so cold, and I was very well pleased by the crystalline and beautiful water of the Arroyo de San Joseph [San Jacinto River], which runs from the Sierra Nevada [San Jacinto Mountains] and comes through a valley so leafy that because of its beauty and attractiveness we called it Paradise Valley. [Hemet & San Jacinto Valley]”
“The arroyo has on its banks thick groves of cottonwoods until it is lost in a large lake which is formed in the valley”The area of the San Jacinto River and the mouth of the Bautista Canyon Creek is granite boulder strewn, although Agricultural interests have removed these over decades for ease of grove management operations and other cropland farming. But the scene of the two water courses where they came together at their confluence centuries ago must have indeed had granite boulders with pools of crystal clear water in them as the scene below behind upper portions of Prado river Flood Basin have as well.
|Photo: M. Dolly|
Priest Francisco Garcès (March 18 1776)
"Going seven leagues to the northwest, we came to the beautiful valley of San Joseph [San Jacinto Valley], which has all the qualities for a good settlement. There is a great abundance of good quelites which the Indians eat in season, sour cane which they call sotole, and a little palm which bears dates which are not like those of Spain, but very different. These are found also in Pimería Alta. [Pima region of Arizona] There is a large cottonwood grove, a very large marsh with much pasturage, a lake, and a river which probably is permanent. We saw a countless multitude of white geese like those which I saw at Agua Amarilla"
|Image by Bert Wildon of Las Pilitas Nursery|
This still blows me away. Garcès is the only one who mentions the presence of Dates from the California Fan Palm which actually is native here in San Jacinto Valley near Soboba Hot Springs. Can you imagine California Fan Palms in this abundantly wet landscape filled with a mix of Fremont Cottonwoods and California Sycamores here and there ? Birds, animals and the local Luiseño Indians would have dispersed them in varying locations as they moved through these lush riparian woodlands either intentionally or accidentally. Somewhere somehow several seeds would have had opportunity to germinate in the permanently moist habitat rich pristine riparian habitat.
|Image: M. Dolly|
Priest Francisco Garcès (March 19 1774)
"Winding around by a very miry road, we came to a hill, [Footnote 93] having traveled about four and a half leagues almost to the northwest but with many windings, because the hills as well as the plains are so boggy. The groves are thickly grown with grass, one species of which bears a seed very much like rye.
This is the day the expedition moves from the major portion of the San Jacino River valley onto the western plains towards Lakeview. This would most likely be the easiest point of crossing as the picture above could illustrate. The mention of those Hills which would be near Mystic Lake and numerous other Lakes and Ponds are on the western side of the main lake and lesser shallow lakes. It has been assumed from this description that it was on the western side of Mystic and at the foot of this Hill and the ones behind it where they made an encampment before heading down towards present day city of Riverside via Moreno Valley.
|Image: (Gregg Koep)|
Black Bear is sharpening claws on Black Cottonwood
"The groves are thickly grown with grass, one species of which bears a seed very much like rye. I have no doubt this is the grain which the Gileños call wheat, for they told me that near the sea there was wheat which they harvested without planting it. Throughout all these lands there are bears, rosemary, sage better than that of Gluadalaxara, cobenas, and chia."
Priest Francisco Garcès Personal Journal 1774 experdition
Juan Bautista de Anza (March 21 1774)
"Having taken over our train by the little bridge, at half past eight in the morning we set forth west-northwest, over good country covered with pasturage, the Sierra Nevada continuing on our right. After going about seven leagues we halted for the night at a fertile arroyo which came from this sierra, and was thickly grown with cottonwoods, willows and sycamores. It was given the name of Los Osos, because of several bear which were seen here and then ran away."
Garcès, (March 21 1774)
"Here there are many bears and sycamores."
|Image M. Dolly|
|Image: M. Dolly|
Now for those of you (if you've even had the energy & patience to read this far) who may insist &/or criticize my description of the San Jacinto River Valley as a wishful over exaggeration or perhaps an embellishment of facts and private emotional interpretation of what was recorded in those expedition journals, then think again. All I did was provide a reverse description of what Juan Bautista de Anza himself wrote in his journal where HE actually actually was the one who made a comparison of the Santa Ana River as being similar to what he saw and experience in the valley of San Josè or San Jacinto River Valley. Clearly, the vast Prado Wetlands did not exist as extensively as it does now. The Prado Dam wasn't there to create the backwater environment which exists now, but guess what ? The San Jacinto River Valley has a better natural potential for just such a scenario for no other reason than it's basic flat spread out valley geography. While it has been more channel in modern times, historically the flow would not only meandered slowly forward as a result of heavy lush woodlands, but also sideways for no other reasons than it's extreme flatness of the geography of both the San Jacinto & Hemet valleys. Hence the once extreme presence of vernal pools to the south and west. Over thousands of years the potential for a massive riparian forested system including the existence of numerous backwater lagoons and other marshes on both sides of the heavily forested main river channel would have been a self-sustaining one even when there were normal periods of drought. The potential for washouts and channeling would have been kepted in check by it's own living environment. Only fine silty nutrient rich sediments which have continually built up over countless throusands of years. But rather than trying to convince anyone on this comparative description, read what Anza himself said:
Juan Bautista de Anza, (March 20, 1774)
"At half past eight in the morning we set forth, going northwest for five leagues, keeping on our right a high, snow covered mountain, which drains into the lake mentioned [Mystic Lake]. Having gone two more leagues to the west-northwest [thru Box Springs Canyon], we came to a valley similar to that of San José [San Jacinto Valley], which likewise has a good river, to which was given the name of Santa Anna [Santa Ana River near Mt Rubidoux]"
Here is a link from the rcflood.org website I mentioned above. Great photos and history of that event.